It’s a natural reaction to avoid putting facial oil on your problem skin. It seems counterintuitive to both clients and some skin therapists and estheticians to wash a shiny, oily complexion with more… oil. 

If you’ve avoided using facial oil on your client’s dry, acne prone, or problem skin, this education article is for you.  

As a cleanser to emulsify and lift dirt, makeup, and oily residue from the skin, a good quality skin oil is hard to beat. And as product layered to keep moisture in and the skin microbiome intact, certain oils come to the rescue, again and again. 

I was an early adopter of a skin oil called CRUDE in 2013 when I was first introduced by the company’s founder, Denise Cartwright. I was attracted to this product for a couple of reasons: 

1. It acted as an all-in-one cleanser and moisturizer 
2. This particular blend of organic skin oil was free from synthetic chemicals and harsh exfoliants 
3. The product was nourishing for problem skin like eczema, rosacea, acne, and dry skin 

Since those long-ago days, I’ve learned other things about facial oils and problem skin, and I’m going to share all that with you, right here.  

UNDERSTANDING FACIAL SKIN OILS  

Educating your clients that their skin naturally produces a protective layer of oil, known as sebum, to help maintain hydration, protect against external aggressors, and support the skin's barrier function is a great place to start. 

Next, help them understand that the overproduction or imbalance of sebum can lead to problem skin, including acne, clogged pores, and inflammation. Knowing this is critical to your… and their success. 

While some facial oils can effectively improve dry, acne, and problem skin, not all oils are created equal. Scientific evidence suggests that the comedogenicity of an oil depends on its fatty acid composition and molecular weight and that makes all the difference. 

Non-comedogenic oils like argan, rosehip, and jojoba exhibit a balanced fatty acid profile and are less likely to exacerbate problem skin. 

Additionally, essential fatty acids (EFAs) found in certain facial oils offer numerous benefits for problem skin too. Studies have highlighted the anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties of EFAs, aiding in mitigating redness, swelling, and acne-causing bacteria.  

Oils rich in linoleic acid, such as grapeseed and safflower oil, demonstrate positive effects on acne-prone skin due to their ability to balance sebum production. 

DO YOUR RESEARCH 

Before suggesting to your clients that they incorporate facial oils into their daily skincare routine, encourage them to research a product's comedogenicity ranking.  

There are numerous articles that provide valuable data on the comedogenic potential of various oils, which will help them make informed choices. Even better, as the expert in the house, make facial oil recommendations to your clients that align with their skin type, concerns, and goals. 

TIP: To avoid any adverse reactions, conduct a patch test by applying a small amount of the oil to a small area of your skin and monitoring for 24-48 hours. This step helps identify any potential allergies or sensitivities. 

OIL CLEANSING 

Since 1 trillion bacteria live on planet skin, we should be paying attention to the products that we slather all over it… especially damaging soap-based cleansers.  

The definition of oil cleansing is a soap-free method of face washing. Most people feel that washing their faces with facial oil is the last thing that they would want to do, but the truth is, the right oils are a boon for the skin barrier and the delicate, symbiotic relationship of our skin bacteria. 

1 in 3 Americans are affected by some form of skin disease, which is interesting since we currently have more knowhow and healing skincare products, but still tend to see terrible skin issues. SOURCE: https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0733863511001768  

FACIAL OILS AND pH 

One of the reasons that facial oils are growing in popularity is because they can help maintain the skin's pH balance, strengthen the protective barrier, and restore hydration. The secret sauce is in choosing oils with a pH like the skin's acidic range.  

As a refresher, the pH scale measures the acidity or alkalinity of a substance, and the skin has its own delicate pH balance. The skin's pH ideally falls between 4.5 and 5.5, making it slightly acidic. This acidic nature helps to support the skin's protective barrier function and ward off harmful bacteria. 

To help restore the pH balance of skin, I recommend argan oil or jojoba oil. Both have a pH like that of the skin. Applying these oils can help maintain or restore the natural pH balance of the skin, promoting a healthy environment. 

In some cases, the skin's pH balance may become more alkaline due to external factors like harsh cleansers or environmental pollutants. This can lead to dryness, irritation, and even breakouts. Using certain facial oils, such as tea tree oil or rosehip oil, which have slightly acidic properties, may help restore the skin's pH balance and relieve these issues. 

While facial oils can offer various benefits, it's essential to note that using excessive amounts of oils or using oils with a significantly different pH than the client’s skin can disrupt the balance and lead to skin problems. Use care and moderation, when deciding which skin oil and skin oil blends are right.   

BEST OILS FOR HEALTHY SKIN + COMEDOGENIC RATING 

• Almond 2 
• Argan 0 
• Avocado 3 
• Castor 1 
• Grapeseed 2 
• Jojoba 2 
• Pomegranate Seed 1 
• Safflower 0 
• Rosehip Seed 1 

FAVORITE SKIN-LOVING FACIAL AND BODY OILS 

Here are my top 5 skin nurturing products! 

1. Josie Maran 100% Argan Oil
2. CRUDE Cleanse
3. Eminence Rosehip Tiple C+E Firming Oil 
4. Eminence Facial Recovery Oil 
5. LOTUS Squalane Healing Facial Oil (amazon link) 

As individuals with problem skin strive to find the perfect balance that addresses their concerns, we need to be able to approach this topic from a professional standpoint, backed by science-based information. 

By comprehending the science behind sebum production, differentiating oil types, and selecting appropriate oils backed by research, you can address your clients’ concerns effectively to help them achieve beautifully balanced and healthy skin.